Welcome to Kelantan, Malaysia's northeasternmost state, often known as the cradle of Malay culture. Despite preserving the state's rich Malay traditions and handicrafts, Kelantanese culture has evolved over time into a variation slightly different from the Malay culture in the rest of the peninsula. It is evident in the arts, language (Kelantanese Malay) and even the cuisine, where the food is a little sweeter and typically favours more coconut milk, resulting in creamier and richer curries.
As such, Kelantan’s cherished culinary offerings are a testament to its rich cultural heritage and the creativity of its people. Each dish tells a story and offers a unique taste experience, making it a must-visit destination for food lovers. Here is an insider's guide to some of the best dishes you must try when visiting Kelantan.
With its vibrant blue rice infused with butterfly pea flowers, a myriad of fresh and fragrant foraged wild greens (ulam), salted egg and fish crackers spread around on a plate, nasi kerabu is a feast for both the eyes and the palate. Offering a unique blend of flavours and textures epitomising Kelantanese cuisine, locals often enjoy it for breakfast with fried fish or chicken on the side. It is such a popular dish that there is even a zone coined the Zon Nasi Kerabu in the state's capital, Kota Bharu dedicated to this dish. If you find yourself overwhelmed by the myriad of choices of places available, make a beeline for the renowned Liniey Nasi Kerabu Tumis. Alternatively, embark on a culinary adventure with the delectable offerings at D’Bayam Nasi Kerabu Tumis in Kota Bharu, the celebrated Nasi Kerabu Panji or the irresistible Nasi Kerabu Singgang Kamariah.
While it is not easy to define ulam, essentially, it is a collective term for the indigenous wild leaves, herbs, shoots, nuts and flowers. It is strong in flavour with a fresh, zesty scent, with some herbs even said to possess health properties.
Nasi ulam is a rice dish served with a medley of finely chopped ulam (typically consists of daun kaduk, pucuk gajus and onions) served alongside crispy fried fish. It is best enjoyed by dipping the greens, vegetables and fish into sambal (a spicy chilli jam) or budu (a savoury fermented sauce made using anchovies and salt) for a delicious burst of flavours. For a hearty lunch experience, visit Restoran Nasi Ulam Kg Kraftangan in Kota Bharu to savour a satisfying explosion of tastes. For more culinary explorations, discover the vibrant offerings at Wakaf Che Yeh in Kota Bharu, sample authentic dishes at Restoran Cili Hijau in Kubang Batang or explore more offerings at Nasi Ulam Merbau in Bandar Kota Bharu. Rest assured, each venue will offer you a unique taste of Kelantanese cuisine.
A traditional breakfast favourite, nasi dagang features aromatic rice steamed with coconut milk, served alongside a rich and flavourful fish curry, toasted coconut flakes and crispy fish crackers. The combination of the creamy rice and the spicy, tangy curry is a perfect start to any day in Kelantan. Head to Kak Laa Nasi Dagang Banggol in Kota Bharu for an authentic taste of this hearty dish or delve into other culinary gems such as Kak Ju Nasi Dagang in Tok Bali, Nasi Dagang Sohor in Chabang Empat Cherang, Restoran & Katering Warisan Rasa in Wakaf Bharu, as well as Nasi Dagang Rayo Basmathi in Kota Bharu.
As an agrarian state, many farmers work in paddy fields for hours. The best meal to bring out with them? Nasi tumpang, a unique and convenient meal on-the-go, consisting of sticky rice layered with serunding (meat floss), omelette, prawns, chicken, beef and fish, all wrapped in a cone-shaped banana leaf that has been grilled over an open fire. This quick but delicious meal is a delightful surprise as each layer unveils a different taste and texture to add interest. Once beloved by travellers passing through town, this delicacy remains a definite must-try today and you can easily sample its flavours at the iconic Kedai Kopi White House in Kota Bharu. For a celebrity twist, sample the Nasi Tumpang Scha Alyahya & Awal Ashaari at Secret Recipe or immerse yourself in the rich flavours at Abe Mat Kedai Kopi on Jalan Pasir Hor in Kampung Pasir Hor, Kota Bharu.
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Photo Credit: Kedai Mee Celup Cik Yue Ampang (Facebook)
There is nothing quite as comforting as Kelantan's nasi air. While it is similar to porridge, it is more akin to a rice soup, where the rice is submerged in a flavourful broth accompanied by beef (or chicken), anchovies, fried shallots and a sprinkle of herbs. This soothing dish is perfect as a light meal or when you are craving for something warm and nourishing. Locals will rave about the version served at Nasi Air Lagenda D Nyior Cino in Kota Bharu, lauding its timeless flavour that remains unchanged since its inception in 1990. For a tantalising experience, also consider Lepark Thai Street Food & Restaurant or the beloved Nasi Air Klasik Kak Chik in Kota Bharu, each offering a unique twist on this comforting classic.
Let us first dissect its name! 'Ayam' means chicken in the Malay language, while 'percik' means to sprinkle or to drizzle, referring to how gravy is repeatedly poured over the chicken while it is being cooked. Unlike its regional cousins, Kelantan's version of ayam percik lands on the sweeter side, making this succulent, aromatic dish a favourite especially when paired with nasi kerabu. Yati Ayam Percik in Kota Bharu does a fantastic version of the ayam percik that is grilled to perfection. For more delicious options, savour the flavours at Kak Jah Ayam Percik Bulatan Lemal in Pasir Mas or delight in the taste at Kak Yah Ayam Percik in Kota Bharu.
Photo Credit: @droses_by_ajati (Instagram)
No big party in Kelantan is complete without the hearty and spicy beef curry that is gulai kawah. It is traditionally cooked in a sizeable wok-shaped pot called a 'kawah'- hence the name-until the chunks of beef are tender and infused with the aromatics of spices such as turmeric, cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, cumin and chilli powder. Coconut milk and tamarind juice are masterfully added to create a creamy texture with a slight tanginess that perfectly balances the spice. The cooking process is indeed intricate and laborious, but you're in luck - you can save yourself the hassle by savouring this culinary masterpiece at Che Su Gulai Kawah in Kota Bharu. For more exquisite renditions, indulge in the rich flavours at Gulai Kawah Kak Mah Abg Lah or the delectable dishes at Kak Na Gulai Kawah, both in Kota Bharu.
Laksam is a type of ‘white laksa’ typically found in Kelantan that looks nothing like the curry laksa one might often find in Kuala Lumpur. Instead of yellow noodles, laksam uses thick, rolled up flat noodles. Also, instead of a spicy curry soup, laksam features a luscious, savoury fish-based coconut milk gravy, which is deliciously seasoned with ginger, shallots and garlic. The Kelantanese version boasts a distinctive sweetness compared to the savoury variant in Terengganu. Revel in its mellow flavour profile with a sumptuous bowl at Laksam Special By-T in Kota Bharu. For an equally delightful experience, visit Pasar Siti Khadijah, where tradition and taste blend harmoniously.
Photo Credit: @semangkuk.tampin (Instagram)
Maggie Ketam elevates the humble instant noodle to gourmet status by adding succulent crab meat and a vibrant tom yum broth. As Kelantan is also home to many fishing villages, this dish showcases the state's freshest seafood and is a beloved comfort food among locals. When visiting the picturesque Pantai Cahaya Bulan, be sure to indulge in the exquisite flavours at D'syaz Cafe Maggi Ketam in Kampong Badang. For more tantalising options, venture to Alemi Maggi Ketam in Cherang Ruku, Pasir Puteh or savour the delightful offerings at Warung Berangin Tumpat. Each venue promises a delectable seafood experience that captures the essence of Kelantanese cuisine.
Photo Credit: @marrirassa_empire (Instagram)
A Kelantanese original with a tinge of Thai influences, mee celup is a noodle dish served with flavourful beef bone broth. You will find an array of toppings, such as slices of tender beef, sometimes with tripe as well as bean sprouts, cilantro, parsley and fried shallots. Crispy garlic oil is drizzled over the dish before serving and true to Kelantanese cuisine signature, it is finished with a sprinkle of sugar. For a truly unparalleled noodle dish, order this invigorating delight from Aus Mee Celup. To explore more of this culinary wonder, savour the exquisite Mee Celup Kak Ani Lado Goreng in Binjai, Kota Bharu or indulge in the unique flavours at Mami Pulut Ayam Wakaf Che Yeh. Each location offers a tantalising experience that embodies the vibrant essence of Kelantanese cuisine.
Eel soup-or sup belut in the local language-is a traditional delicacy in which the eel shines as the star. Some Thai influences are evident in the dish, as tender pieces of local eels are simmered in an aromatic broth of herbs like lemongrass, ginger, shallots, turmeric and vegetables. One popular spot serving this Kelantanese delicacy is Sup Belut Tali Air, where you can indulge in rice and other delectable dishes to accompany the meal. For a more diverse gastronomic journey, visit Restoran Wan Faizah Maggi Tom Yam Belut in Kota Bharu or experience the flavorful offerings at Diee Tom Yam by the scenic Pantai Sri Tujuh in Tumpat. Each venue promises an unforgettable taste of Kelantan's rich culinary heritage.
Colek or colek buah, is a beloved Kelantanese snack consisting of fresh mixed fruits with a spicy, tangy dipping sauce made from belacan (spicy shrimp paste), gula Melaka (palm sugar) and chillies. This versatile dish is perfect as a light snack and exemplifies the local passion for bold, contrasting flavours. Treat yourself to a tasty pick-me-up at Colek Sahabat Wisma Persekutuan Kota Bharu. For more delightful options, indulge in the exquisite offerings at Rumah Manis, conveniently located next to the Balai Bomba Kubang Kerian or savour the unique flavours at Colek Pak Yusof. Don't miss out also on the delectable Colek Bismillah in Pengkalan Kubor. Each of these spots mentioned promises a vibrant taste of Kelantan's culinary diversity.
If you are craving a sweet snack while in Kelantan, look out for stalls selling kuih akok, a traditional steamed cake made from glutinous rice flour, concentrated coconut milk, eggs and palm sugar. Placed in a brass pot over an open fire, these delectable treats are baked in small, round moulds to achieve their distinctive golden brown, wrinkled texture. For an exceptional batch, head to the esteemed Pok Wael Akok Salor. Alternatively, indulge in the exquisite Akok Belahat in Kampung Jeli or explore the flavours at Gerai Akok & Beko in Kg Semat Jal, Tumpat. For another tantalising option, don't miss the Akok Padang Enggang. Each locale promises a delightful taste of Kelantanese culinary craftsmanship.
If you Google Translate the name of this sweet treat, you may find that it means 'duck droppings'. That said, don't be discouraged because what it really means is that this delicious dessert is made using the egg whites from fresh duck eggs. After separating from the yolk, the egg white is boiled in sugar water until it hardens enough to be shaped. As it is usually patchy in texture and white in colour, locals found it to resemble duck droppings, hence the rather unusual name. Another theory of its origins is that kuih tahi itik is usually made using leftover egg whites from yolks used for other kuih (cake). This delicacy was once exclusively served in the palace due to the rarity of eggs. Today, you can indulge in it at various markets or stalls such as Kueh Nik Yae on Jalan Kelocor in Kota Bharu. For another accessible option, visit Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah in Kota Bharu, where you will also easily find this esteemed delicacy.
Kuih jala mas or 'golden net cake', is where most of the duck egg yolks are used. Mixed with sugar, the fine, lace-like threads are achieved by pouring the mixture through a colander and into hot syrup to harden. The result is a soft, syrupy-sweet dessert. For a unique experience, head to Kak Yam Kuih Segera. Another delightful option is Kueh Nik Yae on Jalan Kelocor, Kota Bharu, where you can also savour this delectable treat.
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Photo Credit: @hani_ibrahim11 (Instagram)
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Photo Credit: @rasidah_abdul_hamid (Instagram)
Terengganu too, has lompat tikam, a mouthwatering dessert in layers of green and white, made from pandan leaves and coconut milk respectively. However, Kelantan's version of lompat tikam differs with the addition of red-coloured glutinous rice for added sweetness. Best served cold, this dessert is enhanced by a luscious drizzle of coconut milk or gula Melaka (palm sugar). Pasar Berek 12 beckons as a treasure trove of local delights, making it essential to add lompat tikam to your must-buy list while you are there. For another exceptional culinary experience, consider visiting Restoran & Katering Warisan Rasa in Wakaf Bharu, renowned for its authentic flavours and delightful offerings.
Photo Credit: @lindots_penyaram (Instagram)
Kuih Topi or 'hat cake', is an addictive snack made from rice flour, wheat flour and sugar that is deep-fried to crispy, golden perfection. Named after its hat shape, it is crispy on the outer rim and fluffy in the centre. The locals relish it as a breakfast staple, making it a must-try at one of Kota Bharu's largest markets, Pasar Siti Khadijah. For an equally enticing experience, explore the vibrant offerings at Pasar Berek 12. Additionally, indulge in the irresistible Cucur RM 1.00 3 Biji on Jalan Bayam, Kota Bharu, where each bite promises a delightful start to your day.
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Ketupat manis is a sweet version of the traditional rice dumpling. It is made from glutinous rice cooked with coconut milk and sugar and wrapped in palas leaves. This sweet and sticky treat is a splendid way to end any meal, as it encapsulates the essence of Kelantanese festive flavours. The good news is that you can still find ketupat manis outside of the festive season at the one and only Pasar Siti Khadijah. For another delectable option, consider visiting Adik Manis in Kubang Kerian as well.
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